What 220 Thread Count Really Means (And Why Higher Isn’t Always Better for Bedding)
If you’ve ever shopped for bedding online, you’ve likely seen thread count used as a shorthand for quality. Higher numbers are often presented as better, softer, and more luxurious. But the reality is far more nuanced.
In fact, some of the best bedding in the world sits comfortably in the 200–300 thread count range. At Lilla & Charles, we intentionally use a 220 thread count for our organic cotton percale—not because it’s a compromise, but because it’s where quality, breathability, and durability meet.
What Thread Count Actually Measures
Thread count refers to the total number of horizontal (weft) and vertical (warp) threads woven into one square inch of fabric. For example, a 220 thread count fabric typically contains 110 threads running vertically and 110 running horizontally.
On its own, thread count only tells you how dense the weave is. It does not tell you:
- The quality or length of the cotton fibers
- Whether the yarns are single-ply or multi-ply
- How the fabric was woven or finished
- How breathable or durable the fabric will be
This is where marketing often takes over.
Why Higher Thread Count Isn’t Always Better
Once you move beyond roughly 300 thread count, many manufacturers rely on multi-ply yarns—twisting two or more thinner fibers together and counting each strand individually. This inflates the thread count number without improving performance.
The result?
- Heavier, less breathable fabric
- Reduced airflow and heat retention
- A softer feel initially, but faster breakdown over time
Extremely high thread count sheets can feel smooth at first, but they often sacrifice longevity and comfort—especially for warm sleepers.
The Role of Fiber Quality
Fiber length matters more than thread count. Long-staple cotton—used in high-quality bedding—produces smoother, stronger yarns with fewer exposed fiber ends. This means:
- Less pilling over time
- Greater durability
- A smoother hand feel without added weight
A well-made 220 thread count sheet using long-staple, single-ply cotton will outperform a 600 or 800 thread count sheet made with short fibers and multi-ply yarns.
Single-Ply vs. Multi-Ply Yarns
Single-ply yarns use one continuous strand of cotton fiber. This creates a lighter, more breathable fabric with a crisp, clean feel—especially when woven as percale.
Multi-ply yarns, while useful in some textiles, are often used in bedding to inflate thread count. They create thicker yarns that reduce airflow and can feel dense or heavy against the skin.
At Lilla & Charles, we use single-ply yarns exclusively to preserve breathability and long-term comfort.
Why 220 Thread Count Works So Well for Percale
Percale is a one-over, one-under weave that emphasizes airflow and structure. At 220 thread count, percale achieves:
- A crisp yet comfortable hand feel
- Excellent breathability for hot sleepers
- Durability that improves with washing
- A lightweight, hotel-style finish
Higher thread counts can actually work against the natural benefits of percale, making the fabric feel heavier and less responsive.
Thread Count vs. Real-World Comfort
When it comes to how sheets feel on your body, factors like weave, fiber quality, and finishing matter far more than a number on a product page.
This is why many luxury hotels, designers, and textile mills favor thread counts between 200 and 300—they prioritize sleep quality over marketing claims.
How to Shop Smarter for Bedding
Instead of asking “What’s the thread count?”, ask:
- Is the cotton long-staple?
- Are the yarns single-ply?
- What weave is used?
- How was the fabric finished?
These answers will tell you far more about how your sheets will feel, age, and perform over time.
Our Approach at Lilla & Charles
We chose a custom-made 220 thread count organic cotton percale because it delivers exactly what we value: breathability, durability, and honest comfort. No inflated numbers. No shortcuts.
Just thoughtfully designed bedding made to be slept on, washed often, and enjoyed for years.
Because true quality doesn’t need exaggeration—it speaks for itself.