If you’ve ever shopped for linen sheets, you’ve probably seen terms like stonewashed, enzyme-washed, garment-washed, and softened linen — often used interchangeably by brands. But what do these actually mean? And more importantly, how do they affect the feel, quality, and longevity of your bedding?
At Lilla & Charles, we believe in being transparent about every step of the process — because softening linen isn’t just about instant comfort. It’s about striking the right balance between softness, durability, and environmental impact.
Here’s a closer look at the most common linen softening methods, and the real pros and cons of each.
1. Stonewashing
What it is:
Stonewashing is exactly what it sounds like: the linen fabric is washed with small pumice stones in large industrial washing machines. As the stones tumble against the linen, they break down the fibers’ stiffness and give the fabric a softer, relaxed, “lived-in” look.
Pros:
- Produces that popular, casual vintage look with natural fading.
- Creates a very soft, supple hand-feel from the start.
- No chemical softeners needed.
Cons:
- The abrasive process weakens the fibers slightly, which can reduce long-term durability.
- Produces a lot of stone dust and slurry, which must be treated before disposal — raising environmental concerns.
- Irregular wear can make batches look slightly different (which some see as a charm, others as inconsistency).
Best for:
Those who love a distressed, matte look and don’t mind a bit of reduced lifespan.
2. Enzyme Washing
What it is:
Enzyme washing uses natural, biodegradable enzymes that gently “eat away” at the outer, rougher fibers of the linen. It’s a slower, gentler process than stonewashing and doesn’t rely on mechanical abrasion.
Pros:
- Produces an equally soft and smooth feel without compromising the strength of the linen.
- Uses fewer resources than stonewashing and creates less waste.
- Maintains the clean, natural color of linen without heavy fading.
- Safer for sensitive skin compared to chemical softeners.
Cons:
- Typically costs more due to slower production and the use of natural enzymes.
- Doesn’t create the same intentionally distressed look; the finish is softer but retains a refined appearance.
Best for:
Those who value softness and durability, and want a finish that feels timeless rather than overly worn-in.
3. Chemical Softening
What it is:
This process uses chemical softeners (often silicones or synthetic compounds) applied to the linen to artificially coat the fibers and make them feel smoother.
Pros:
- Quick and inexpensive.
- Can produce an ultra-silky feel immediately.
Cons:
- Coatings can wash off over time, leaving the linen stiff again.
- Chemicals may irritate sensitive skin or off-gas in the home.
- Not environmentally friendly; leaves a chemical footprint in production.
Best for:
Those seeking budget-friendly linen that feels soft on the shelf — but know it may not stay that way.
4. Garment Washing
What it is:
Garment washing means the linen is washed after it’s cut and sewn into its final product (sheets, pillowcases, etc.), rather than as raw fabric. It’s often paired with enzyme or stonewashing.
Pros:
- Ensures the final product won’t shrink after purchase.
- Helps maintain the product’s shape and drape.
- Can add extra softness.
Cons:
- Adds production cost.
- Still depends on what kind of softening process is used (enzyme vs. stonewashing) — the garment wash alone doesn’t create softness.
Best for:
People who want consistent fit and worry about linen shrinking at home.
Why We Chose Enzyme-Washed Linen at Lilla & Charles
When we developed our linen bedding collection, we wanted sheets that felt buttery and comforting from day one — yet could still be heirloom pieces, softening more with each wash rather than wearing out.
We chose enzyme washing because it preserves the integrity of the fibers while offering genuine softness. It’s gentler on the environment, keeps the linen breathable and strong, and feels incredibly soft without adding artificial chemicals or synthetic coatings.
Our linen is made from 165 GSM French flax, treated only with enzyme washing, so it keeps its natural texture while feeling smooth enough for everyday comfort.
Final Thoughts: Softness Shouldn’t Be a Shortcut
Softening linen is both an art and a science. And while instant softness feels wonderful, it’s worth asking what it costs — in durability, health, and environmental impact.
At Lilla & Charles, our philosophy is simple: choose methods that respect the fiber, the planet, and the people who use them. Because true luxury isn’t just how something feels on day one — it’s how it keeps feeling for years to come.